The beauty, health and wellness worlds are talking non-stop about inflammation, but when it comes to hair health this condition tends to be overlooked.
Stress, hormones, diet and genetics are often blamed for our hair woes, but did you know that inflammation alone can be the cause of some of the most common concerns? Think, shedding, thinning, slow growth, scalp discomfort and changes in density. Interestingly, inflammation can go unnoticed because it doesn’t always present as itchy, red or irritated skin.
According to Ricardo Vila Nova, inflammation can influence the hair cycle long before visible symptoms appear, because our follicles are highly sensitive to even the smallest shifts in their internal and external environment.
The link between inflammation and the hair growth cycle
Hair grows in a repeating cycle of anagen (growth), catagen (transition) and telogen (rest), and inflammation can disrupt this rhythm. When the body registers stress, from internal triggers like hormones or external ones like pollution, inflammation increases.
“In order for a follicle to grow healthy hair, it needs oxygen, nutrients, balanced lipids and a stable environment,” says Vila Nova. “Inflammation interferes with all of these. It disrupts the cross-talk between cells, slows the delivery of nutrients and creates an environment where the follicle has to work harder to sustain growth.”
The scalp itself is exposed to more stressors than most people realise. Pollution, UV rays, mineral build-up from hard water, harsh detergents, fragrance, product build-up, over-washing or under-washing, repetitive styling and even friction from hats or pillowcases can all provoke irritation. And it doesn’t stop there; internal factors have an impact too. Chronic stress, nutrient deficiencies, immune system changes, and hormonal imbalances and shifts in the scalp microbiome all heighten inflammatory activity. When several of these influences overlap, the follicle’s environment begins to destabilise.
How inflammation impacts the scalp and follicles
As Vila Nova explained, inflammation doesn’t always present in a dramatic way (at first). Instead, it settles quietly into the tissues surrounding the follicle and begins to change how hair grows. One of the first things to be affected when inflammation rears its head is, microcirculation. As blood flow becomes less efficient, follicles struggle to receive the oxygen and nutrients they need to function at their best. “A follicle that isn’t receiving what it needs begins to behave defensively,” explains Vila Nova. “They produce thinner, weaker hairs and spend less time in the growth phase, which is why people often notice a loss of fullness even before they see obvious thinning.”
Inflammation also affects how the scalp regulates oil, hydration and cell turnover. This can lead to oily roots, but a tight, dry or flaky scalp and congestion. “Congestion is almost always a sign that the follicle’s environment has shifted,” says Vila Nova. “It restricts oxygen and allows inflammation to linger.”
Over time, these changes can encourage miniaturisation, aka the gradual shrinking of the follicle. “While commonly associated with genetic thinning, inflammation can mimic or accelerate the process in people without a genetic predisposition. The hair becomes finer, the cycle becomes shorter and the scalp begins to feel more exposed. Most people don’t describe pain; instead, they speak of warmth, sensitivity or a general sense that their scalp feels ‘off’. These sensations reflect deeper inflammatory changes altering how the follicle functions,” explains Vila Nova.
How to reverse inflammation
Reassuringly, Vila Nova shares that “inflammation can be reversed, and the scalp often responds quicker than expected once the inflammatory load is reduced.” The goal is to calm the inflammatory signals while restoring the environment the follicle needs to thrive.
“Your first step has to be addressing the triggers. Deep-cleansing and restorative scalp treatments dissolve build-up, remove irritants and rebalance oils, reducing many of the everyday factors that keep inflammation active. Once these irritants are lifted, the follicle can once again access the oxygen and nutrients it has been missing,” says Vila Nova.
Microneedling offers additional support by improving microcirculation and counteracting the restricted blood flow inflammation creates. It can be combined with actives that help repair, and boost growth, like biosomes. These microscopic messengers help down-regulate inflammatory markers and encourage cellular repair, resetting the follicle’s internal environment – making them especially effective for inflammation-driven thinning.
Nutritional support is often essential too. Deficiencies in key nutrients like iron, and vitamin D can amplify inflammation, “so restoring optimal levels helps regulate immune behaviour and reduce background stress on the scalp,” reveals Vila Nova.
Additionally, at home it’s imperative that you use haircare that prevents inflammation from returning. This looks like products that respect the microbiome, ones that don’t include harsh detergents and those that protect the skin barrier. All of which will help maintain the calmer environment created by your 212.2 Ricardo Vila Nova treatments.
Discover whether inflammation is hindering your hair health by booking a consultation using the link below.
